Projects - Replacing CV joints and / or CV boots

Click the images to see enlarged view

The axles on my 1981 VW Rabbit Pickup were very loose and two of the CV boots were ripped open. Here's a write-up to help anyone that has to do the job of replacing CV joints or CV boots.

The first step is to remove the axles from the vehicle. The removal process is well documented in the workshop manuals so I'll leave it up to you to get that part figured out.

1. Flat blade screwdriver
2. Needle nose pliers (or stork pliers)
3. Snap ring pliers
4. Ear clamp pliers
5. 36mm socket (optional: this is the same size used to remove the oil filter housing on VR6 equipped cars)
6. Hammer
7. Drift punches
8. Pneumatic hammer (can be used in place of the hammer and punches)
9. Scissors (or utility knife)
10. Wire brush (for cleaning any parts)
11. Shop rags, paper towels, etc
12. Nitrile / Latex gloves
13. Wire brush
14. Cleaner / Degreaser
15. Anti-seize paste
16. Vice (makes working on axles a bit easier)

Parts:
Outer CV joint kit


Inner CV Joint kit


Here's why the project was started...yummy!



Secure the axle in the vice... Start by removing the band that holds the outer CV boot on Using the flat blade screwdriver, lift up the end of the band and pry it off. Do the same for the smaller one holding the boot to the axle shaft


With the bands removed, pull the boot off the CV joint


Now that the internals of the CV joint are exposed, wipe away some of the grease so you can see what you're working on. Using the hammer and drift punch, remove the CV joint. Place the drift on the inner most part of the CV joint and hammer it off.


Remove the cupped washer and wipe off all the grease.


Here you can see the clip that holds the CV joint in place on the axle shaft. It's the small groove near the end of the shaft.


Now it's time to remove the retaining clip Here you can use the snap ring pliers to push the retaining ring out of its groove. Makes it fairly easy.


Here's the ring. Not much to it really...


Now it's time to put the outer part of the axle shaft back together. Start by putting the small ear clamp band on first (if you forget, don't worry. You can open the band and wrap it around afterwards. It's just easier to do now.) You can see the smaller drift punch being used to help get the CV boot over some parts of the axle shaft. There's a small lip inside the CV boot that makes it a little difficult to move onto the axle. You can rotate the drift punch around the axle shaft while pushing the boot on. This helps get the boot over the raised parts of the axle shaft.


Next, install the new retaining clip The clip just presses into place. There is a bit of tension in the clip to be careful not to let it get away from you.


Next, install the metal-cupped washer and plastic washer. Install the cupped washer so the cupped part faces AWAY from the CV boot. (curved part faces outward) Install the plastic washer so the smaller end faces AWAY from the CV boot.


Next, grease up the CV joint. Start by cutting open the grease packet (some kits come with and actual plastic tube of grease. These are actually easier to work with because you can get the tip into the smaller spaces of the CV joint). Try not to cut the packet too far back. It makes it easier to get the grease where you want it. Put the opening to the grease packet into the grooves of the outer part of the CV joint. Squeeze in the grease so it goes through the cage and around the ball bearings. You can see in the pic how it looks


Now, put the opening to the packet into the center of the CV joint and squeeze the rest of the grease in. You should be able to get the grease to come up out of the CV joint. Use ALL of the grease in the packet on new CV joints.


Slide the CV joint onto the axle until it stops. At this point, grab onto the stub of the CV joint and rotate it around. This will help distribute the CV grease inside the joint.


Now, make sure the CV joint stub is straight with the axle shaft. Use the hammer to get the CV joint into place. Make sure it's seated all the way against the plastic washer.


Work the CV boot over and into the CV joint groove. You will need to open the larger band clamp to get it into place. Squeeze the clamp on two opposite sides and it will spring open. Position the clamp into place and compress the ring until it's the smallest it will go. The clamp should stay in place at this point. Open the smaller clamp in the same way and position it on the inner part of the CV boot. Compress the clamp and secure it back to its smallest setting. Wipe off any excess grease.


Using the CV band clamp pliers, secure the bands into place. You can also use a pair of crimpling pliers to tighten the clamps. The CV band clamp pliers (also called ear clamp pliers) run about $20.


Check to make sure the clamps are secure by trying to turn rotate them. If you can rotate them on their own, they are not tight enough. Grab the outer stub of the CV joint and rotate it around a couple of times to make sure the boot stays in place. The outer CV joint is now done!


On to the inner CV joint... Start by pushing the outer part of the CV joint back a little bit to expose the end of the axle shaft. Wipe away the grease so you can see all the parts.


You can just make out the circlip that holds the CV joint on in this pic.


Using the snap ring pliers, open the circlip and remove it. This can sometimes take a bit of doing. If you're having problems getting it off, use the hammer and drift to push the CV joint back onto the shaft a little bit. This will help loosen up the circlip. You can pry open the circlip and wedge in the tip of the flat blade screwdriver to keep it from closing all the way. There have been a few circlips that were a little stubborn. Just be patient, it will come off. You can use a pair of needle nose pliers to grab the circlip and "peel" it off the axle shaft (pull the circlip away from the CV joint while rotating the pliers). This has helped in a few instances.


Success!!


Now it's time to get the CV joint off. The CV boot can be a little difficult to remove by hand. Use the drift punch to remove the flange from the CV joint housing.


Using the hammer and drift punch, remove the CV joint. Pull the outer part of the CV joint away from the CV boot. Don't pull too hard. You just want to give yourself enough space to get the drift set in place. Place the drift on the inner most part of the CV joint and hammer the joint off.


Now that the CV joint is off, pull off the cupped washer and the CV boot. Wipe off any excess grease.


Next, getting it all back together. You can use the smaller drift again to help ease the install of the CV boot. Rotate the punch around the axle shaft while moving the CV boot into place. You can see the grooves in the axle shaft where the end of the boot will lock into place.


Here's the inner CV boot installed


Now, install the cupped washer. Make sure the cup is facing AWAY from the CV boot.


Notice that there is a smaller side to the inner CV joint. You want that smaller side to go outward AWAY from the CV boot. That is where the CV joint fits into the transmission flange.


Press the CV joint into place. Try not to use the outer part of the CV joint as leverage. You can get it to a point where it will bind up. This can cause serious frustration and may also cause the CV joint to come apart. Trust me, they're not much fun trying to put back together...


Use the snap ring pliers to open the new circlip while pressing it into place. At this point, it probably will not go completely back into place. You will have to apply some force to get everything back the way it should be.


You can see here that the clip is not quite into position.


You do not need to measure the circlip gap. This is only for showing that the clip is not all the way into position.


Now, you can use one of two methods to get the CV joint on the rest of the way. You can grab a 36mm socket (it's the same size used to remove the oil filter housing on a VR6) or you can use a hammer and drift punch. Place the open end of the socket over the end of the axle shaft. Hold it up against the inner part of the CV joint and hammer on it. It took some force to get it into place. What you're going for here is getting the circlip to drop into position.


You can see that the gap drops by nearly 5mm. Now you know it's in place.


Next, bring on the CV grease... Pull the outer part of the CV joint out a little. Cut open the grease packet (remember, keep the opening somewhat small to get into the smaller areas). Place the opening in the grooves of the outer housing and squeeze in the grease. Do the same for the inner part of the CV joint to there's a good coating.


Pull the CV boot flange out of the way and get as much grease into the inner cage as possible. Put the opening into the grooves of the inner part of the CV joint and squeeze in some grease.


Clean up the bridges from the CV bolts



Pull the outer housing of the CV joint back into place. It should be even with the rest of the parts of the CV joint. Turn the boot so the holes in the flange line up with the holes in the CV joint housing. Install the bridges and bolts.


...and it's finished!


One completed axle assembly.


Now, you can install the axle back in the vehicle.

NOTE:
When installing the axle assembly back into the vehicle, put some anti-seize paste on the threads of the outer CV joint stub and splines. This will keep it from getting stuck to the hub. It's a good idea to put some anti-seize on the CV bolts as well. Since they are exposed from the backside of the transmission flange, it's easier for them to rust and get stuck in the flange.

Time from start to finish:
For a beginner with proper tools, I'd say 2.5 hours. That should include the time of removing one axle, R & R of all new axle parts and installing the axle back in the car.

Cost of parts:
The CV joints are the biggest cost. If you're just replacing CV boots and putting in new grease, it's not that bad.

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